Goldsmith
Fifteenth-century engraving of the goldsmith and patron saint of goldsmiths Saint Eligius in his workshop
Goldsmiths must be skilled in forming metal through filing, soldering, sawing, forging, casting, and polishing metal. The trade has very often included jewellery-making skills, as well as the very similar skills of the silversmith. Traditionally, these skills had been passed along through apprenticeships, however, more recently jewellery arts schools specializing solely in teaching goldsmithing and a multitude of skills falling under the jewellery arts umbrella are available. Many universities and junior colleges also offer goldsmithing, silversmithing, and metal arts fabrication as a part of their fine arts curriculum.
At least in Europe, goldsmiths increasingly performed many of the functions we now regard as part of banking, especially providing custody of valuable items and currency exchange, though they were usually restrained from lending at interest, which was regarded as usury.
Contents
Gold
Main article: Gold
A Karo people (Indonesia) goldsmith in Sumatra (circa 1918)
Karo goldsmith and his tools
History
A goldsmith workshop during the mid-seventeenth century
In medieval Europe goldsmiths were organized into guilds and usually were one of the most important and wealthiest of the guilds in a city. The guild kept records of members and the marks they used on their products. These records, when they survive, are very useful to historians[citation needed]. Goldsmiths often acted as bankers, since they dealt in gold and had sufficient security for the safe storage of valuable items. In the Middle Ages, goldsmithing normally included silversmithing as well, but the brass workers and workers in other base metals normally were members of a separate guild, since the trades were not allowed to overlap. Many jewelers also were goldsmiths.
Gold and silver smith in Lucknow, India 1890
The printmaking technique of engraving developed among goldsmiths in Germany around 1430, who had long used the technique on their metal pieces. The notable engravers of the fifteenth century were either goldsmiths, such as Master E. S., or the sons of goldsmiths, such as Martin Schongauer and Albrecht Dürer.
Contemporary goldsmithing
Because it is so soft, however, 24 Carat gold is rarely used. It usually is alloyed to make it stronger and to create different colors; goldsmiths may have some skill in that process. The gold may be cast into some item then, usually with the lost wax casting process, or it may be used to fabricate the work directly in metal.
In the latter case, the goldsmith will use a variety of tools and machinery, including the rolling mill, the drawplate, and perhaps, swage blocks and other forming tools to make the metal into shapes needed to build the intended piece. Then parts are fabricated through a wide variety of processes and assembled by soldering. It is a testament to the history and evolution of the trade that those skills have reached an extremely high level of attainment and skill over time. A fine goldsmith can and will work to a tolerance approaching that of precision machinery, but largely using only his eyes and hand tools. Quite often the goldsmith's job involves the making of mountings for gemstones, in which case they often are referred to as jewelers.
'Jeweller', however, is a term mostly reserved for a person who deals in jewellery (buys and sells) and not to be confused with a goldsmith, silversmith, gemologist, diamond cutter, and diamond setters. A 'jobbing jeweller' is the term for a jeweller who undertakes a small basic amount of jewellery repair and alteration.
Notable historical goldsmiths
Main pages: Category:Goldsmiths and Category:Silversmiths
Contemporary goldsmiths of note
- Lois Etherington Betteridge
- Andrea Cagnetti - Akelo
- William Claude Harper
- Mary Lee Hu
- Linda MacNeil
- Mazlo
- John Paul Miller (1918-2013)
- Gary Lee Noffke
See also
- Society of North American Goldsmiths
- Old master print, engraving, and niello - goldsmith's techniques or related trades in the Middle Ages
- Bench jeweler
- Toreutics
- Persian-Sassanide art patterns
- Jewelers' Row
- Silver (household)
- Sunar
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